dissolve -- old school way

[chas_ucla]

What you say sounds logical.

Time to search for a Craven or Ewa backwinder...

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[chas_ucla]

This guy on the Indie Film North website just posted this:

"Back when I use to shoot super8mm, I use to do dissolves by simply making an overlapping tape splice. It will actually run through the projector without hanging up. I would overlap ten frames or so then tape splice the beginning and end of the overlap. It's not bad.."

Has anyone here every tried that? I would think that the extra thickness would put the projector out of whack but maybe not if it's only a few frames.


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[MovieStuff]

Well, focus will be lost on one of the clips, not to mention a severe build up of density. The only way I could see this working is if you did a "white out" by opeing the aperature slowly for the first clip and doing the opposite for the next clip. That way one image would dissolve (more or less) into the next, though there would still be a big "bump" in the image when the overlap ended. Seems kind of a stretch to me, personally. I would think creative editing could show a passage of time with more finnesse than this technique, though clever.

Roger

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Roger Evans
MovieStuff
http://www.afterimagephoto.tv/moviestuff.html

[8th Man]

I wonder if those thinner Fuji single 8 stocks would handle that better.

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PRM

[miguelito]

I once tried dissolving in camera. I shot my first scene of my front driveway and closed-down the f-stop just before I stopped the camera. Next, I took the film out (in a changing bag) and backwound it by hand by about 4 inches. I put it back into the camera (while still in the changing bag) and shot my second scene of the family dog running around in the front yard. I opened-up the f-stop gradually to where it was when I shot the first scene.
This method works o.k. if your dissolve does not have to be exact to the frame.


Miguelito (michael)


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